Cruising ~ The Cat’s Meow Style ~
January, February, March
2010
A Whale of a Winter
View from The Cat’s Meow of the Sierra
Gigantes
Yes, it has been a WHALE of
a winter….a working winter for us on The Cat’s Meow. After enjoying the
holidays, friends and family visiting, so much good good food…….. it was time
to get to work. We had some major projects planned for the winter months, while
we turned on the mooring ball, here in Puerto Escondido: new flopper stoppers
(they help keep TCM stable while at anchor), a new water tank, installing the
generator purchased while we were in the US during the summer, and
re-fiberglassing and painting the main deck decks. Whew! A LOT of work.
So. Martin and friend Ray
built a new water tank in the engine room. Fiberglassing is a messy, stinky
business. Fiberglass fibers get tracked all over the boat, epoxy gets spilled
and dripped, and it is just generally not fun. Plus, being in the engine room
with all of those fumes can be rather daunting…… but the water tank did finally
get completed, and now we have almost double the water tankage we had before
this project.
Martin did the most of the
fabrication of the new flopper stoppers at the boat yard here at Pto.
Escondido, which cut down the mess here on the boat. Thank the gods. At this
writing they are still at the boat yard, with just the last bits of work to be
done. Soon. Maybe soon.
While we expected to install
the generator we brought down the Baja with us, we ended-up purchasing yet
another generator, this one actually better suited to our needs and ready to
use. Now, we had two generators to get
into the boat and secured. Hmmmm…..how does one DO that while out on the
water?? Well, Martin hired a crane. The crane lives on the outskirts of Loreto.
The crane had to be driven the almost 15 miles, on a windy, hilly road, to
Puerto Escondido, to the boat yard. TCM was moved to a rickety “work dock”
alongside the boat yard. The galley
floor had to be removed, and a few other items moved around inside. Then…..the
head of the crane was brought right in through our main salon door and into the
galley…..Robin was closing her eyes at that point……so that first one and then
the second genset could be lowered into the hatchway and down into the engine
room. Martin was down in the engine room, directing the generators as they were
lowered. Elvin, of P.E.M.S in P.E. (the proper name of the boat yard) was
directing and assisting the whole time, too. Robin kept her eyes closed….
Elvin, of P.E.M.S. in PE, assisting with the heavy work Head of the crane in our galley!
Crane placing the generator thru galley floor to engine room The aftermath…and lots more work for Martin
The great news is that now
we have a working, quiet (well, as quiet as generators get), easy to use
generator again – for the first time since our sinking experience!! Robin likes
that part J
Ya know, we just can’t – and
we don’t want to – work all of the time, especially here in such a grand place
with such wonderful people around. Friends on the sailing vessel DrueAnn, Rob
and Robin, decided it was time to “tie the knot”, and what better time and
place to do that than right here? The Porto Bello Restaurant played a big part
in the whole celebration, thanks to proprietor Pedro, and Ray (Adios) got
himself “papered” by the World Church just in time. On Januray 18th,
we all had a wonderful time celebrating the union of R & R, and we must
say: Fun was had by ALL!!!
Robin, Louie, and Rob with “Reverend Ray” during a
really fun wedding ceremony
(photo by Sunlover Connie)
This winter was a strange
one in terms of weather. It sounds like weather was purrrty strange in many
parts of the planet, as well. The north winds, we call ‘em northers, just would
not rest. Every few days, another one would blow – sometimes very heavy gusts,
up into the 40+ knot range. And, we had some rain, which just does not happen
in the Baja during the winter. Most of the vessels stayed-put, but every once
in a while, one would decide to go on a walk-about, and then the captains of
many boats would hop into their dinghies and race to help move or secure the
boat needing assistance.
Strange but gorgeous weather in our port Manta, broken from its mooring, getting lots of help in the wind and rain
When the sun was out and the
winds calm, we had very mild temperatures. It was cold, too, way too much of
the time, when the north winds were blowing.
It was difficult to work outside in cold strong winds, so the deck work
did not progress as we had planned. Robin did persevere when she could, and
ripped-up the old deck fiberglass on the bow, and then later on the aft deck.
Then the wood was repaired and prepped for the new fiberglass. This took
months, and we are blaming that on the weather!
Deck at TCM’s bow all torn-up –
Robin’s handywork
One late afternoon, the snow
birds (mostly from Canada) that populate Rattlesnake beach, a few minutes south
of the port, invited some of us from Pto. Escondido to a bonfire on the beach.
A potluck ensued, with plenty of hot dogs and interesting dishes to accompany
them. We brought the makings for s’mores – yummm. The fire was warm and toasty,
the winds were down, and we all had a good time.
Relaxing on Rattlesnake beach of
an evening
After working nonstop for about
two months, we decided we needed some warmer weather and a change of scenery.
Besides, our shopping list for La Paz was getting longer and longer. We loaded the cats into the RV and headed to
La Paz for a little vacation. Some other folks from Pto. Escondido had the same
idea, evidently, because we all saw each other in La Paz! Most of the time, we
visited friends and our favorite haunts in “the big city”. The winter Olympics
were being held at this time, and we were able to view some of the TV coverage
while enjoying some good inexpensive food and drink.
Lisa, Merry (and Robin) visiting Roberta in La Paz Toes enjoyed seeing some of his best pals, too,
here
with Dennis (Two Can Play)
There was one rather funny
thing happening in La Paz while we were there: a gigantic catamaran had been
built in one of the boat yards and was ready to launch. This thing was so big
that a fence had to be removed, and other special efforts made to get it down
to the launch ramp….and then the problems really started…….. The catamaran was stopped by a small lip at
the end of the ramp, and it might have had six inches on either side to get all
the way down the ramp, into the water, when they finally got moving again.
First, this HUGE catamaran was built in the boat yard……and taken to the launch ramp…..that is when the problems started….. OOOOOps….. Stuck. For four days!
Yes, we had a WHALE of a
time this winter! At the end of our visit in La Paz, Susan and Dennis (Two Can
Play) joined us for a whale watching day in the village of Puerto San Carlos,
which is on the Pacific side of the Baja, inside Magdalena Bay. We contacted
Enrique, who we knew to be an excellent whale tour panga guy. The following
morning we were in the panga and on the water before 7:30 a.m., heading out
into the Bay. Enrique stopped one of the shrimping pangas (we didn’t even know
that they shrimped by panga!) and purchased a load of fresher-than-fresh
shrimp. Then, we headed for one of the locations where Enrique knew the whales
would be hanging out, stopping by the local “bird island” on the way.
Bijillions of birds take off when
Enrique takes us to their beach Dennis & Susan (Two
Can Play) enjoying the panga ride
Enrique showed us the sights
for about 4 ½ hours! We saw whales spyhopping and breeching in the distance,
and we were up-close-and-personal to some others, with one going directly under
our panga! Whale tails are quite difficult to photograph, especially with the
digital cameras, but we managed to get a few decent shots.
One whale of a tail (by Robin) up close and personal! Another whale tale (?) photo taken by Dennis
We took a lunch break in the
very small village of Magdalena. While the four of us were having a cold beer,
Enrique disappeared, only to appear in a short while with a huge platter of
cooked shrimp – the very shrimp he had bought earlier! Wow, did we ever dine fine! Lobster tails
and shrimp. Not bad.
Enrique and the shrimp he bought and cooked for us Robin holding our lunch, just before they were cooked
After that great La Paz and
whale watching break, we both returned to our respective boat projects. The
northers continued. We worked. Then, one sunny and warm Sunday, Martin joined a
few others for a hike up Steinbeck Canyon, located just behind the harbor, in
the rugged and beautiful Sierra Gigante mountains. What a great way to spend a
day!
View up Steinbeck canyon, just outside of Pto. Escondido Another view of the canyon…. What fun!!
Friends Merry and Dave of
Air Ops needed to drive to the village of Constitucion, located in the middle
of the Baja – an agricultural area – for some items they needed, and they
wanted to see Puerto San Carlos. A great excuse to take another day-trip! All
four of us scoured the banks of the bay for some very pretty shells (both Merry
and Robin make jewelry and other crafts with the shells) after a delicious and
downright cheap meal. A school for oceanographic research is housed in this
tiny village, and we were fortunate to meet some of the university students who
are studying the bay, the whales and other sea life.
We enjoyed a great lunch with Dave & Merry (Air Ops) in tiny Puerto San Carlos, where there is also a teaching/research school for oceanography
One evening, here in Pto.
Escondido, a very interesting man by the name of Colin presented slides and a
discussion about the whales seen right here in the Sea of Cortez. We had heard
that the gigantic blue whales and the almost-as-large finbacks, and others,
came to the Sea during the winter months, but we had never been here during the
winter before. After listening to Colin’s presentation, we decided to go with
him and a marine biologist, Fernando, the next week on one of the whale
watching panga tours right here, in our own back yard. WOW. Fernando will only take up to 5 persons in his
panga, he leaves at 8 a.m. sharp, and we stayed on the water for six hours!!
We saw blues, finbacks, humpbacks, and three orcas with a bryde’s whale. WOW!!! These two guys are sooooo
knowledgeable about the whales. They even recognize many of the individuals by
their markings, and have names for them! The most exciting part of the day was
when the orcas, who kill whales by ganging up on them, seemed to be chasing or
bothering the bryde’s whale. But then, the bryde’s turned and seemed to be
chasing the orcas!! And, he swam on his back, many different times, seemingly
for fun and right along our panga! Fernando and Colin were both very intrigued,
as this is unusual behavior and the bryde’s whale is hardly ever seen because
they are so shy. This one stayed with us for almost two hours!! What a whale of
a good time we had!!
Whale watching in Fernando’s panga Yet another whale tail – this one a blue whale, Sea of Cortez
We ended the first quarter
of the new year with a hike up into another canyon, this one down the road a
piece and back about three or four miles from the road. Six of us made our way
up hill, following the riverbed, for a few miles. The hike was not strenuous
and it was very pretty. We found a few pools of fresh water, and some of us
were willing to jump in and swim to cool off.
Molly watches Morris take the plunge… ….and she just could not stop herself!!!
And, that is how we spent
the first few months of this new year, 2010. We had a WHALE of a GOOD TIME,
too!!!! We hope 2010 is a banner year for each of you, and that you, too, have
a whale of a good time! Come on back and see what else we get into, Cruising
~ The Cat’s Meow Style…….